I just realized I never gave a status update on the kitchen renovations. (Remember, this is what it looked like when we moved in!) We’re still not done but we’ve been living in a “halfway point” for a few months now. Here’s how it looks so far!
Still to do:
— Replace the tile floor. It’s uneven (some places are 2″ higher than others) and without heat in the kitchen this past winter, the tiles got reeeeally cold. (Read: colder than the inside of the fridge.) They have started cracking pretty badly and you can trip over a piece of tile now. So not only do we need to tear out the tile but also level the subfloor before putting in a new floor.
— Paint the ceiling. We primed it and left it at that. Plus, the part of the kitchen around the fireplace still doesn’t have a ceiling yet so we’ll have to take care of that too.
— Get light fixtures. I want to have one by the exterior window/ wine rack and one by the fireplace. While the ceiling’s torn up by the fireplace, I’m thinking of installing recessed lighting anyway to highlight the future mantle… we’ll see.
— Finish painting the interior of some of the kitchen cupboard doors. We were in such a rush to finish this portion of the kitchen in time for the final filming of House Hunters that we only painted the exterior of some of the doors. (AND they cut out all of the kitchen for the final episode– ugh!!) Right now they’re just plain wood.
— Lastly, but most importantly, install heat in the kitchen. This has been our top priority the past few weeks as we’ve researched and met with lots of heating & air conditioning specialists who have come to see our system. (One said he didn’t think his company would take on such a big project that’s so not up to code, and another said he’d never seen such an inefficient system.) Other rooms have functioning baseboard heating but the kitchen does not. So– before Winter 2014/2015 arrives, we will make sure we get heating in this room!!!
Looking pretty good. You have really come a long way.
Replacing the tile after the kitchen install is going to be interesting (Cute maybe?). Sometime we have to do what we have to do just to move things along though, time, budget, sanity, et al..
The picture through the arch (#4) gives me vertigo. At first I thought something had warped the picture then I took a closer look at the floor. (While doing that I saw that apparatus on top of the fridge which probably isn’t as illicit as it looks but ????) I couldn’t help but wonder if that warpage was there before the fridge or after it was put in place. If the fridge is doing that to the floor and shifting the cabinets out of level then it is time for a trip to the basement immediately for some extra support.
If you installed the cabinets and/or trim out of level then you have a few fine points to learn about. I am not in any way trying to knock your skills, just help you get better results when you do things yourself. I’m much more sympathetic to your situation since you’ve chosen self reliance.
Scribing is the secret. This gives the basics. http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/how-to-scribe-for-a-perfect-fit/view-all You have to adapt the idea to whatever your particular need is. There are many other tutorials and I’d recommend searching around until you feel like you get the concept.
In the case of a lower cabinet, it’s simpler if the base is separate from the cabinet. Put the base where you want it, make sure it is perfectly level with whatever sort of shimming you need (it’s temporary so anything that levels it will do), scribe to the floor, cut to the line you just made, put the base back in place and the top should be level. Now set the cabinet on the base. It should be level too. Scribe to the wall and it’s ready to screw in place. Works on pretty much any trim. Wait until you have tried a lot of other places before you even think about crown moldings!!!!
If you have two separate cabinets like you do on either side of the fridge, find the high spot and the low spot in the area they both cover first. Measure their height difference. Fit the base over the high spot first. Remove the total difference in height when you scribe. Put that base in and then level to second base to its own high spot. Scribe off the amount that it takes to drop its top level to the top level of the other. That should leave both counters level and at the same height and the vertical edges will all be vertical. Don’t worry so much about the floor, your eye sees the other lines.
Looking at the cabinet to the right of the stove makes me think your cabinets have integral bases, which makes things a bit harder but the principle is the same. Put it where you want it, level, scribe the amount that has to come off to make it all contact the floor or to lower the top to where you want it. You just have to reach up under the cabinet to mark it. Do the same with the baseboard when you install that.
A cheap compass will work, but you might want to consider something like this. http://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-ACCUSCRIBE-FastCap-Accuscribe-Scribing/dp/B0001GUDT6
Haha the apparatus on top of the fridge is for drinking wine– I guess it’s pretty illegal if you’re under 21!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porron
The floor and everything had already been warped before we arrived, but that doesn’t mean we want to keep it that way. In our remodel so far we’ve only replaced the cabinet doors and countertops around the fridge; once we remove the tile, we’re going to see exactly what’s going on around there and hopefully be able to remedy it easily! (Sweet dreams, right?) Seriously– thank you so much for your tips on how to get the cabinets level. Lots to learn! We appreciate your input.
I LOVE your countertops and your sink in front of the window. You are doing an amazing job. Thanks for sharing.
Dawn
Thank you so much! 🙂 I really appreciate the positive feedback. Thank you for sharing that!
Great kitchen!!! Very unique layout. I love farm houses. I look forward to following your blog!